There are differing opinions on how curly hair should be cut.  Curly hair comes in many different textures, curls/waves and lengths for each individual.  On any head there can be sometimes up to 3 different curl patterns.  When cutting the hair, the stylist has to remember that not all the head will fall the same way because of this.

Length of Hair Desired:  sometimes the client wants a cut but they do not want to cut off as much length.  It is very important to have them make a decision about this.  Some cuts just cannot show nicely unless they are at certain lengths.  A half inch on straight hair is like an inch on curly and takes almost twice as much time to show regrowth.  Clients get queasy when they have to make this commitment especially if they are getting married soon and need hair for the big day.   When cutting wet, let the hair fall naturally, no pulling.  You should see the curls aligned before cutting.
Image of black female with a twist out hairstyle
To ensure that the hair will not be shorter in some sections, I look at the following:

  • type of curl
  • direction of curl
  • length of the hair desired
  • current length of the hair
  • condition of the hair

Considering these factors ensures that you and the client are clear about their expectations.

Current Haircut:  If the person has a haircut that is shorter or their curl pattern will not stay in the style without blow drying and an iron, you need to say so.  Not all clients are into doing their hair for 30 minutes every morning.  Pointing this out will cement this little tidbit in their head.  This could be their snooze time they will be cutting into after all.
Direction of Curl:  some clients have curl patterns, usually in the crown but occurring anywhere on the head, that defies gravity.  If this direction is not respected the hair will stick out at weird angles.  If it is what is known in hair circles as a “cowlick’, it has a length that it must stay at so it lies down.  Clients who are proactive will give let you know where the cowlicks are but sometimes they do not remember and it is not visible while the hair is long.

Condition of the Hair:  If the clients’ hair is frizzy or dry, a good conditioning treatment regiment may have to be done along with the cut.  Getting rid of the ragged ends takes guts, but I explain to the client that breakage continues if it is not done early.  It is better to take a quarter inch now rather than 3 inches later.
Call (613) 789-2179 to book your appointment if you are in the Ottawa, Canada area.